|
• Are
you a new customer to Herman Silver Restoration?
• Do
you remove monograms?
• If
I'm going to bid on a piece on an auction site, can I get a repair quote?
• What
do I insure my silver for that I'm shipping to you?
• What's
the difference between, repair, restoration, conservation & preservation?
• What's
the difference between a hallmark, housemark, and a maker's mark?
• How
can I tell if a piece is solid silver or plated?
• Do
you do appraisals?
• Do
you replace blades in stainless knife handles?
• Do
you do restorations on gold flatware?
• You
do major repairs; can I send something that just needs polishing?
• Can
you give me a price on a repair?
• Some
of the gilding has worn off my fish slice, can it be replated?
• Can
you convert a place fork into an ice cream fork?
• Can
you repair a baby spoon that's been down the garbage disposal?
• Why
won't polishing remove turquoise-colored corrosion?
• Can
I add a patina to silver or does it have to be done professionally?
• What's
the difference between machine engraving and hand engraving?
• Can
acidic punch in silverplate be a hazardous combination?
• Should
I lacquer silver so it won't tarnish?
• Is
1847 Rogers Bros. flatware sterling?
• When
was stainless first used in table knives?
• What
will prevent rust on carbon steel blades?
• Can
plated carbon steel blades be replated?
• What
are the white spots I see on my plated piece?
• What
is weighted sterling?
• Who
should I contact if I want to sell my silver?
• Where
can I learn silversmithing or jewelry making?
• I
have just started collecting. Are there any silver magazines?
• I
have about 70 pounds of silver coins. Where should I sell them?
• I
have a Mexican candelabra stamped "sterling" on the
bottom. Are the arms sterling?
• Why
is there a metallic taste when I drink coffee or tea?
• Who
was America's first silversmith?
• Is
it true about a smith's reflection in The Bible's Malachi 3:3?
Q.
Are you a new customer to Herman Silver Restoration?
A.
If the answer is yes, please let us know what
you're sending by calling or e-mailing
an image of the object to be repaired. Thank you!
Q.
Do
you remove monograms?
A.
Monograms on silver are part of the object's
history and should not be removed for this reason. Museums use
monograms to help trace an object's provenance. Beautiful engraving
is a work of art—an art form quickly disappearing. Sadly, most
antique dealers indiscriminately remove monograms to make the object
more saleable.
Having said this, if you insist
on having the engraving removed, I will agree to eradicate it. I
would rather remove the monogram than have the object brought to
someone less skilled. I have no reservations in removing machine
engraving from mass-produced flatware. Keep in mind that if a
monogram is deeply engraved on the bottom of a thin tray, for
example, the results may not be desirable, for any weight placed on
that area could possibly produce a dent. You will be consulted before
I remove engraving from any object in question.
Q.
If
I'm going to bid on a piece on an
auction site,
can I get a repair quote?
A.
If
you're considering
a silver purchase from an auction site, e-mail
an image of the object in need of repair and I'll be happy e-mail you
an estimate.
Q.
What do I insure
my silver for that I'm shipping to you?
A. Your
homeowner's insurance may state what your piece is worth and if it's
covered off premises. If the policy isn't that specific, try
the following:
• Identify
the OBJECT: Coffeepot, Sardine Server, Caviar Server, etc.
• Identify
the COUNTRY in which it was created: America, England, Germany, etc.
• Identify
the MAKER: Gorham, Tiffany, Georg Jensen, Arthur J. Stone, Paul
Storr, etc. If you can't identify the maker, go here.
• Identify
the METAL STANDARD: Sterling, .925, Coin, Standard, 800, 840, EPNS
(Electro Plated Nickel Silver), etc.
• Type
the above information in your browser's search feature and see if
your piece is found.
Q.
What's the difference between, repair, restoration, conservation
& preservation?
A. The
definitions below, in many instances, can be combined for the
desired outcome.
• Repair: To
fix (best possible outcome) a damaged or worn area on an object.
•
Restoration: To either make an object or damaged area on that object
look new, or to make it look its age without any noticeable damage or repairs.
•
Conservation: Primarily dealing with cleaning an object, doing the
least amount of harm to its original finish.
•
Preservation: To stabolize an object from further deterioration. This
may entail using an archival wax to maintain the surface finish.
Q.
What's the difference between a hallmark, housemark, and a maker's mark?
A.These
terms are commonly confused...
• Hallmark: A
mark or series of marks stamped or laser-engraved by a country's
assay office indicating the quality of the precious metal tested
(e.g., "Sterling," ".925," ".840,"
".800," or an image of a "rampant
lion"—indicating sterling as used in Great Britian). The
object may also contain the country, assay office, maker's mark,
housemark, date mark, duty mark, etc.
• Housemark:
A mark stamped or laser-engraved by the company (e.g.,
"Gorham," "Reed & Barton,"
"Tiffany," "Kalo") that created the object for
its own line or for a retailer (e.g., "Shreve, Crump &
Low," "J.E. Caldwell Co."). In addition, there
may also be a maker's mark, indicating the company's craftsman
who created or oversaw the creation of the object.
• Maker's
Mark: The
name or artistic mark stamped, engraved, or laser-engraved on an
object created by an individual silversmith or jeweler.
Q.
How can I tell if a piece is solid silver or plated?
A.
Normally, if an object is solid silver it will be indicated on the
piece. Examples are: Sterling, 925, 925/1000, 900, Coin, Standard,
9584 (English Britannia), 800 (Germany), 84 (Russia), etc.). Most
American-made objects are marked on the bottoms of holloware and on
the reverse on flatware. Foreign-made objects can be marked most
anywhere, and are sometimes accompanied by additional marks applied
in the country's assay office which tests the quality of the precious
metal during its manufacture. Rarely will you find a piece made of
solid silver that isn't stamped. If an object isn't stamped, a
non-invasive identification method is judging by tarnish color.
Silverplate will exhibit a blue-purple hue, where solid silver will
exhibit grey-black. If you cannot determine if an object is solid
silver, consult a silversmith or jeweler who may use an acid test.
Q.
Do you do appraisals?
A.
I'm sorry, I don't. Please contact a professional at one of the
following organizations:
American
Society of Appraisers
555 Herndon Parkway, Suite 125
Herndon, VA 20170
703/478-2228, Fax: 703/742-8471
Find an appraiser at ASA
Appraisers
Association of America, Inc.
386 Park Ave. South, Suite 2000
New York, NY 10016
212/889-5404, Fax: 212/889-5503
Find an appraiser at AAA
International
Society of Appraisers
1131 SW 7th St., Suite 105
Renton, WA 98055
206/241-0359, Fax: 206/241-0436
Find an appraiser at ISA
Q.
Do you replace
broken blades in stainless handles?
A.
No. The blades that are fitted and ground to the shape of the
handle are specific to that design. I'm afraid you'll have to look
for a replacement.
Q.
Do you do restorations on gold flatware?
A.
Yes I do. I have found that many collectors are looking to also have
vermeil (gilding) removed from recently purchased sterling flatware.
I will then patinate the pieces and give them a light buffing for an
entirely new look.
Q.
You
do major repairs;
can I send something that just needs polishing?
A.
Though it looks as though I perform only complicated repairs or work
on rare pieces, I most certainly take on (and enjoy) polishing all
types of silver.
Q.
Can you give me a price on a repair?
A.
If you can e-mail me images of the pieces, along with with the makers
marks (usually illustrated on the bottoms of the objects), I will be
able to give you ballpark pricing.
Q.
Some of the gilding has worn off
my fish slice, can it be replated?
A.
Yes, the worn area can be sponge plated and blended into the
surrounding gilding.
Q.
Can you convert a
place fork into an ice cream fork?
A. Unfortunately,
I do not alter flatware designs to something that was never made in
that pattern. If I were to do that, a collector in the future may
assume that the company made that piece when they didn't. I would
suggest contacting a silver dealer
to see if the piece you would like created exists in your pattern.
Q.
Can you repair a baby spoon that's been down the garbage disposal?
A.
Ninety-nine percent of the time it can! The bowl can be
rounded and gouges removed, splits can be brazed, handles can be
unwrapped and straightened, and most of all, the piece can be made
useful again. I repaired a disposal-damaged baby spoon from a
collector in California. His wife was livid. He loved the results
upon return...it gets better. I received the same spoon a couple of
months later after it had again been down the disposal. There was
actually enough material left for me to make the baby spoon
functional without any sharp edges!
Q.
Why won't
polishing remove turquoise-colored corrosion?
A.
A. This color indicates that the piece is probably plated and not a
solid silver alloy. If this is the case, the area that is corroded
would have to be selectively plated or the entire piece re-plated. Do
not try to remove the corrosion yourself as it may harm the value of
the object.
Q.
Can I add a patina to silver or does it have to be done professionally?
A.
Unfortunately, there are no safe methods to repatinate your silver,
since most of the chemicals are extremely toxic. These chemicals are
also difficult to apply and highlight.
Q.
What's the difference between machine engraving and hand engraving?
A.
Machine engraving isn't true engraving in a sense that metal isn't
removed, it's actually burnished. That's why you'll feel a slight
ridge when you run your finger over it. It's not unlike when you draw
a picture in the sand. Hand engraving is the process
of cutting shallow lines into metal with a sharp graver, reproducing
artwork which has been drawn on a metal article. Unlike machine
engraving, hand engraving removes metal when cutting. Bright cutting
is another form of engraving which is very reflective because of its
flat, angled cut.
Q.
Can
acidic punch in silverplate be a hazardous combination?
A.
It's true that anything acetic that comes in contact with sterling or
leaded crystal will eventually leach into the liquid, though, it
would be unusual for it to happen at an accelerated rate. I generally
tell my customers to empty liquor from their whisky flasks
immediately after use for that reason. If the punchbowl is plated,
there may be some base metal (copper, brass, or leaded white metal)
showing through and giving the punch a nasty taste.
Q.
Should I lacquer silver so it won't tarnish?
A.
Lacquering silver and silverplate is generally not recommended
because of the difficulties in obtaining a uniform coating, even when
applied by a professional refinisher. If the coating has not been
applied well, it may even have streaks and small holes, so that when
the object retarnishes, it could look worse than if no coating had
been applied. Lacquer will also eventually yellow and crack, allowing
tarnish to form within the fissures and eventually under the
protective coating. Lacquer can easily chip or wear off of contact
points on objects that have individual parts, such as covers on sugar
bowls, coffee and teapots, boxes, salt shakers, and the like. Strong
solvents must then be used to remove the lacquer and the piece
refinished, not always successfully.
If an object is
placed in an open display where surface protection is necessary, an
archival micro-crystalline wax such as Renaissance is recommended.
Renaissance will not yellow and will last for years if handled
properly. Since Renaissance wax is not as durable as lacquer, the
object should be handled with cotton gloves since acid from your
fingers may eventually remove it. Renaissance wax can be purchased
from Cutlery Specialties (restorationproduct.com).
Q.
I
have a set of 1847 Rogers Bros. flatware. Is it sterling?
A.
Unfortunately, it isn't. The "1847" refers to an
extensive line of plated flatware they produced.
Q.
When was stainless first used in
table knives?
A.
Stainless for table knife blades was developed in 1924 by Dr. William
Herbert Hatfield in England. It was called 18/8 stainless steel (18%
chromium, 8% nickel), an alloy which is still used today. Prior to
this development, carbon steel was used which was then replaced with
plated carbon steel.
Q.
What
will prevent rust on carbon steel blades?
A. Flatware
containing unplated carbon steel knife blades require protection, or
rust will develop. After use, wash the piece as soon as possible in
warm water and dry immediately. Apply some mineral oil to a paper
towel and wipe the blade, leaving a thin layer of oil. When you're
ready to reuse the knife, lightly wipe the blade again; an even
thinner layer of the tasteless mineral oil will temporarily protect
the bare steel when cutting food. If these knives become to taxing to
care for, new stainless steel replacement blades are available.
Q.
Can plated carbon steel blades be replated?
A.
Plated steel knife blades. They eventually rust, may show pitting,
and the plating peels. It's a shame. Unfortunately, nobody will
replate a steel blade and guarantee that it won't peel, especially at
the cutting edge. Your only alternative is a stainless replacement blade.
Q.
What are the white spots I see on my plated piece?
A. This
phenomenon usually occurs on a freshly plated piece with moisture
migrating to the surface. Even if the piece was properly dried after
plating, some spots may still appear over a short period of time.
This is especially true if the base metal is a lead alloy or pewter
that was not nickel plated before being plated with fine silver. The
nickel would normally keep any moisture from migrating to the
surface. Polishing usually makes these spots disappear, but often
only on a temporary basis. To achieve a more permanent fix, after
polishing, heat the piece with a hair dryer (do not do this if your
piece is weighted) until it is warm to the touch. You may have to
repeat this procedure a few times until the white spots no longer appear.
Q.
What
is weighted sterling?
A.
Weighted sterling is reinforced holloware and dresserware. These
pieces are most often filled with pitch, but may also contain
plaster, lead, or some other material because the metal can be as
thin as .003". If these pieces were not weighted, they would
almost collapse! The total weight of the silver alone in a large
candelabra may be as low as a few ounces. Weighted objects have been
produced for decades, allowing more consumers to afford silver. In
most cases, objects of this type are impractical because their
structural integrity often suffers with daily use and cleaning. More
on weighted sterling can be found here.
Q. Who
should I contact if I want to sell my silver?
A.
Before you send it to a refiner, contact a reputable antique silver
dealer or auction house; you may find it's worth more than you think!
Try any of the following businesses I have dealt with:
• A.B.
Levy
211 Worth Ave.
Palm Beach, FL 33480
561/835-9139 |
• Greenwald
Antiques
3096 Mayfield Rd.
Cleveland Heights,
OH 44118
216/932-5535
|
• As
You Like It Silver Shop
3033 Magazine St.
New Orleans, LA 70115
800/828-2311
|
• Heritage
Auction Galleries
1518 Slocum St.
Dallas, TX 75207
800/872-6467
|
• Beverly
Bremer Silver Shop
3164 Peachtree Rd. N.E.
Atlanta, GA 30305|
800/270-4009 |
• M.
Ford Creech Antiques
581 South Perkins Rd.
Memphis, TN 38117
901/761-1163
|
• Carman's Collectables
PO Box 258
Levittown, PA 19059
215/946-9315
|
• Laurie
Ackerman
PO Box 373
Swansea, MA 02777
508/675-4889,
Cell: 508/277-9942
|
• Christie's
20 Rockefeller Plaza
New York, NY 10020
212/636-2000
|
• Reliable
Gold
81 Wayland Ave.
Providence, RI 02906
401/861-1414
|
• Drucker
Antiques, Inc.
487 East Main
Street, Ste. 197
Mount Kisco, NY 10549
914/923-4560 |
• Sotheby's
1334 York Ave.
New York, NY 10021
800/813-5968 |
Q.
Where can I learn silversmithing or jewelry making?
A. Try
the resources on these pages:
U.S.
Schools Offering Degree Programs in Silversmithing & Related Fields
Silversmithing
& Related Workshops
Q.
I have just started
collecting. Are there any silver magazines?
A.
I would recommend subscribing to Silver
Magazine, PO Box 10246, Greensboro NC 27404, 866/841-0112.
Q.
I have about
70 pounds
of silver coins. Where should I sell them?
A.
It sound like you need a reliable coin dealer. You may want to search
the American
Numismatic Association member locator.
Q.
I have a Mexican candelabra stamped "sterling" on the
bottom. Are
the arms sterling?
A. Though
there are no quality marks on the arms, I am confident that they are
sterling. Unlike Great Britain, Germany, and other countries that
must hallmark all removable pieces on an object, Mexico has no such standard.
Q. Why
is there a metallic taste when I drink coffee or tea?
A. When
I get this question, it usually leads to a plated pot that has the
plating worn off inside the object revealing the base metal
underneath. You shoudl discontinue using these pieces until you can
get their interiors replated.
Q.
Who was
America's first silversmith?
A.
That's a tricky question that can only be answered as follows:
America's first foreign-born
silversmith was John Mansfield who arrived from London in 1635, and
settled in Charlestown, Massachusetts.
America's first foreign-born & American-trained
silversmith was John Hull of London who immigrated to Boston,
completing his apprenticeship in 1645.
America's first American-born
& American-trained silversmith was Jeremiah Dummer from
Quincy, Massachusetts, who completed his apprenticeship in 1666.
Q.
Is it true about
a smith's reflection in The Bible's Malachi 3:3?
A.
Yes, it is true that if a silversmith sees his/her reflection in a
crucible of molten silver that is ready to "pour."
Normally, charcoal or flux is added over the silver to absorb any
oxygen away from the silver. When the impurities have been
absorbed, and the silversmith can see his/her reflection (and
providing the metal hasn't been overheated), it's ready to pour.
Please keep in mind that safety
glasses and proper ventilation are an absolute MUST when working with
molten metal.
If you've forgotten the entire
story, here it is:
"There was a group of women
in a Bible study on the book of Malachi. As they were studying
chapter three they came across verse three which says, "He will
sit as a refiner and purifier of silver." This verse puzzled the
women and they wondered what this statement meant about the character
and nature of God.
One of the women offered to find
out about the process of refining silver and get back to the group at
their next Bible study. That week the woman called up a silversmith
and made an appointment to watch him at work. She didn't mention
anything about the reason for her interest in silver beyond her
curiosity about the process of refining silver. As she watched the
silversmith, he held a piece of silver over the fire and let it heat
up. He explained that, in refining silver, one needed to hold the
silver in the middle of the fire where the flames were hottest so as
to burn away all the impurities.
The woman thought about God
holding us in such a hot spot - then she thought again about the
verse, that He sits as a refiner and purifier of silver. She asked
the silversmith if it was true that he had to sit there in front of
the fire the whole time the silver was being refined. The man
answered that yes, he not only had to sit there holding the silver,
but he had to keep his eyes on the silver the entire time it was in
the fire. For if the silver was left even a moment too long in the
flames, it would be destroyed.
The woman was silent for a
moment. Then she asked the silversmith, "How do you know when
the silver is fully refined?" He smiled at her and
answered, "Oh, that's the easy part -- when I see my image
reflected in it." |
